When I first started buying antique saws I bought just about every saw I found that didn't look too broken because I really didn't know what the difference between a good saw and a not-so-good saw was. I couldn't tell what time period a saw was from, how well it was made, and if there where issues with the saw that would take more time than it was worth to fix. Let's just say I have a lot of saws that no one will ever want to buy. I hope this practical guide to buying antique handsaws will prevent you from making lots of mistake like I did. This guide is meant to be practical, i.e., for the person who wants some good saws to use. In other words, this guide isn't for collectors who want to have a room full of rare and expensive saws they will never use. Those guides exist elsewhere. So let's get started.

Types of saws

As a practical hand tool woodworker you will likely need just a few saws: A saw to make cuts with the grain in boards; a saw to cut across the grain in boards; a saw to make straight, precise cuts across boards, a saw to cut tenons, a saw to cut dovetails, a miter saw, a coping saw, and maybe a flush cut saw. There are a couple of other saws that may come in handy including a  keyhole saw, or compass saw, a hacksaw, and a turning or bow saw. Before you go and make a list of saws to get, start by deciding what you want to make and then figure out which saws you need to make it. Here's the list of saws I just mentioned:

• Hand or panel saw - teeth filed for rip cuts
• Hand or panel saw - teeth filed for crosscuts
• Carcase saw
• Tenon saw (if you plan to make mortise and tenon joints)
• Dovetail saw (if you plan to cut dovetails)
• Mitre saw (if you do a lot of mitre cuts and use a mitre box)
• Coping saw
• Flush cut saw

Saw Brands

When it comes to saw brands different people have different opinions. I will say, however, that I've never heard anyone say anything bad about Disston (or really any of the other major saw manufacturers of the 19th and early 20th centuries. As an average user (and maybe even an expert user) you aren't going to notice any difference in the performance of a saw from different manufacturers. If you just want a few good saws to use, avoid what collectors go after and what the tool writers drool over. I suggest looking for a Warranted Superior saw. All of the major saw manufacturers, including Disston, made saws with with "Warranted Superior" on the saw medallion. Supposedly these were lesser quality saws, but I have never seen convincing proof that these saws would perform any worse than their "higher end" counterparts. The most important thing is to find a saw that feels good for you to use - the handle feels good in your hand, you like the size, and you feel like you are able to cut well with it.

How to inspect antique saws

When you walk into the antique store/flea market/garage sale/eBay there are a few things to look for when purchasing a saw. First take a look at the handle. Are there cracks in it? Are the horns broken off? Is there are ton of movement between the handle and the blade? If the answer is yes and you don't want to deal with trying to fix any of these things, set the saw down and move on. A saw's handle is also a great way to get an idea of the quality and age of a saw. If the handle has lots of detail work and the handle looks nice a rounded, like it would be comfortable to hold, then it's probably an older or higher quality saw. If the handle is flat on the sides and looks like it was made by a machine, then it's probably a lower quality or newer.

Next look at the blade. Sight down the top like you would to see if a wood board is straight. Is there a major bend or any kinks? If there is a kink, don't buy it. If there is a bend and you don't want to try and hammer it out, don't buy it. Take a look at both sides of the blade. Is there a lot of rust? That can be removed, but if you don't feel like dealing with it - you guessed it, don't buy it. Another good check to do is to see if the saw blade still has tension, but you have to be careful to not piss off whomever you are buying the saw from. Bend the saw in a U shape in both directions. Saws are made out of spring steel. They should spring back to straight when they are bent. If the saw doesn't, then it will be need to be hammered to add tension.

Now look at the teeth. Do the teeth look consistent in size and shape? Are there any missing or broken teeth? That's okay, but you will either need to fix it yourself or send it to someone to fix and pay a lot more to have them fix it than you are (hopefully) paying for the saw. Again, if you aren't into doing this yourself or paying someone to, just move on. Keep in mind when shopping for antique saws that there are millions and millions of antique saws out there. They are not rare. There is no need to pay a dollar or two for a completely busted up saw when you can pay a dollar or two for a saw that is pretty much ready to use. And, there are plenty of saw geeks out there who buy the busted up saws, clean and sharpened them and sell them for A LOT less than what you would pay for a new, high quality saw

Also, keep in mind that if you are going planning to fix up an old saw yourself you will need some equipment and supplies, including a saw vise, saw set, files, and supplies for cleaning and removing rust from the saw.

Antique saw prices

Prices for antique saws can vary based on a lot of factors including brand, age, condition, geographic location, and seller (online marketplace, antique store, flea market etc.) It's difficult to give suggestions for prices because of all these factors, but here is an educated attempt at what you should consider paying for different types of antique saws that are not commonly considered collectable. Note that these are very general estimations. Prices for antique tools prices, even two very similar tools, can have a large amount of variation. Just because an antique saw falls in or out of the prices ranges below does not mean it is a good or bad deal based on your needs. 

Needs restoration - Cracks in handle, broken horns, lots of rust, broken and misshapen teeth.

Needs to be cleaned and sharpened - Some rust and dull teeth.

Clean and sharp - It has been cleaned and sharpened by someone.

I hope this practical guide to buying antique saws helps you find some saws for your workshop. Remember that the most important thing with any tool is that you enjoy using it. Nothing else really matters. If you have questions, thoughts, or disagree with anything written here, get it touch.

Aaron

Shopkeeper, Bench & Chisel